Tuesday, November 17, 2015
Sunday, November 15, 2015
Screaming Eagle Questions
10 Things We Don't Know About Screaming Eagle
Every wine lover knows the cult Cabernet, but W. Blake Gray still wants answers.
I've tried for some
time to visit Screaming Eagle, but its owner, reclusive Colorado
multi-billionaire Stan Kroenke, doesn't do interviews. And its
management has chosen not to allow an interview with its winemaker. But
my editors kept asking for a Screaming Eagle profile, because many
people come to Wine-Searcher looking for its wines. What's a writer to
do?
I offered to write a 10 Things... article about Screaming Eagle, but they would all be from Wikipedia and the like, and if you're interested in the winery you probably already know them. This is a brand that makes its money through mystique. Everyone has heard of it, but few have tasted it. Keeping the brand mysterious is good marketing, so let's explore that with 10 Things We Don't Know About Screaming Eagle.
1. We don't know how much wine they make.
Scarcity is a big reason for Screaming Eagle's desirability. Originally the wine came from only a one-acre plot on a 57-acre (23-hectare) vineyard Jean Phillips bought in 1986. The debut 1992 vintage got 99 points from Robert Parker and because there was so little – only 225 cases – everybody wanted it; that's how California wine works. Phillips had the entire vineyard replanted to (mostly?) Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc in 1995. In 2006, when the brand and vineyard were sold to Kroenke and Charles Banks, Banks said the vineyard needed to be replanted again, though the goal wasn't to make a lot more wine. But 57 acres is a lot of land, enough to make thousands of cases of wine. And does anybody really measure how much wine Screaming Eagle is making?
2. We don't know how (or if) Nick Gislason's winemaking differs from his predecessors'.
Gislason is a wunderkind; he succeeded Andy Erickson in 2010 as Screaming Eagle winemaker at the age of 28. Much of what we know about him comes from a long interview in 2012 with a friend from the small town in Washington state where he grew up. Gislason said the 2011 vintage was the first that was "100-percent Nick", but 2011 was an aberration for Napa Valley, a rainy and cool year, the last before the drought. And Michel Rolland is reportedly still consulting, plus Gislason said Erickson still pops in now and then. Is Gislason doing anything new to put his stamp on the wines?
3. We don't know what Robert Parker would think if he tasted the wines blind.
Nobody can objectively review a bottle knowing that it is "Screaming Eagle." Many psychological studies show how our perceptions of a product are affected by knowing its price. Not only does Parker not taste blind; he apparently often tastes Screaming Eagle at the winery, with the winemaker. This leads to all sorts of bias, not the least confirmation bias, given that Parker is the man who first touted the greatness of Screaming Eagle. What if he put it in a comparative blind tasting of other single-vineyard Napa Valley Cabs? Would he still call it, as he did in 2012, a "perfect wine?"
© Ed Anderson/Arsenal | Charles Banks (L) teamed up with Raj Parr among others after splitting with Stan Kroenke.
4. Come to think of it, we don't know what Robert Parker's tasting notes for the 2012 Screaming Eagle mean.
Parker writes: "Made in the classic, iconic Screaming Eagle style that the original proprietress, Jean Philipps, first showcased in the early 1990s, before the winery was sold to Stan Kroenke, the inky/purple-colored, seamless 2012 possesses an extraordinary set of aromatics consisting of pure blackcurrant liqueur, licorice, acacia flowers, graphite and a subtle hint of new oak. Full-bodied, opulent and voluptuous, this profound wine is as prodigious as I thought it would be last year when tasted from barrel." Does Screaming Eagle have a classic, iconic style? What's the implication that it changed when it was sold to Kroenke? What's Parker trying to say?
5. We don't know why the Sauvignon Blanc is so expensive.
I've had Screaming Eagle Cabernet; it's good. I haven't had the Sauvignon Blanc because at $3900 a bottle on Wine-Searcher, it's crazy expensive. It was allegedly supposed to be a small treat for certain mailing-list customers and restaurants, and now it fetches more than the Cabernet. In the macro sense, we know why it's so expensive: scarcity, which is no longer an issue with the Cabernet, as you can order that and have it by next Friday (see point 1). But here's Parker on the Sauvignon Blanc: "There's nothing terribly special about it, and I can think of a dozen or so Sauvignon Blancs made in nearby vineyards that are richer, more complex, and just better wines at much lower price points." Why the hell do people pay $3900 for Screaming Eagle Sauvignon Blanc?
6. We don't know why Charles Banks left Screaming Eagle.
Banks and Kroenke bought it together, but then Banks left to build his own empire of wineries including Mayacamas Vineyards, Sandhi, Qupé, Wind Gap, South Africa's Mulderbosch and New Zealand's Trinity Hill. Banks didn't need the money from selling his share of Screaming Eagle. He told Wines & Vines in 2014: "We had a great run until my partner, Stan Kroenke, decided he didn't want a partner anymore." Perhaps Kroenke, estimated to be worth $6.3 billion by Forbes, made him an offer he couldn't refuse. Or perhaps Banks wanted to own a different kind of winery. If you look at those names that he bought, all of them are known for sommelier-friendly, non-blockbuster wine. Did Banks want to take Screaming Eagle in a different direction?
7. We don't know which of Stan Kroenke's "children" he likes best.
Kroenke, whose wife Ann is the daughter of Walmart founder James "Bud" Walton, owns the NFL's St. Louis Rams, the NBA's Denver Nuggets, the NHL's Colorado Avalanche and is the largest shareholder in the English Premier League football club Arsenal. He also owns some minor sports franchises and Land Report magazine ranks him as the US's ninth-largest landowner, two places above the Ford family, who made money on a successful venture in motor vehicles. Screaming Eagle isn't listed until the next to last paragraph of his lengthy Wikipedia page, and even then it's under "Other business."
© Screaming Eagle | The Cabernet originally came from just one of the vineyard's 57 acres.
8. We don't know how well the wine will age.
For what it's worth, the Wine Advocate, which is as bullish on the long-term potential of Napa Cabernet as any publication, says that every wine through the '99 vintage is now "Late" in its maturation process, which means "in the last third of the range."
9. We don't know why the eagle is screaming.
But we don't know why the caged bird sings either. "Screaming Eagles" is the nickname for the US Army's 101st Airborne Division, which took part in the D-Day landings. The designation is still in use for the division, which last year was dispatched to western Africa to help contain the spread of ebola. Red wine also has many medicinal uses.
10. We don't know if Screaming Eagle wines are worth the money.
It depends on how you're going to use the wine. Are you going to drink it with dinner, maybe a nice steak? Or perhaps in your den in front of a crackling fire? Then no, it's almost certainly not worth the money; there are plenty of wines you will like just as much at one-tenth the price. Are you going to give it to your Cab-loving boss while you're up for a big promotion? Or to a politician whose vote you want on crucial legislation? Or use it to lure your favorite Hollywood star to your table? Then it's probably worth it – assuming you get the job, he votes your way, and she doesn't turn out to be an impersonator in drag.
I offered to write a 10 Things... article about Screaming Eagle, but they would all be from Wikipedia and the like, and if you're interested in the winery you probably already know them. This is a brand that makes its money through mystique. Everyone has heard of it, but few have tasted it. Keeping the brand mysterious is good marketing, so let's explore that with 10 Things We Don't Know About Screaming Eagle.
| Related stories: |
| 100 Parker Points Give Screaming Eagle Prices Wings |
| Charles Banks: Life After Screaming Eagle |
| Screaming Eagle Thwarts "Selfish Greed" |
Scarcity is a big reason for Screaming Eagle's desirability. Originally the wine came from only a one-acre plot on a 57-acre (23-hectare) vineyard Jean Phillips bought in 1986. The debut 1992 vintage got 99 points from Robert Parker and because there was so little – only 225 cases – everybody wanted it; that's how California wine works. Phillips had the entire vineyard replanted to (mostly?) Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc in 1995. In 2006, when the brand and vineyard were sold to Kroenke and Charles Banks, Banks said the vineyard needed to be replanted again, though the goal wasn't to make a lot more wine. But 57 acres is a lot of land, enough to make thousands of cases of wine. And does anybody really measure how much wine Screaming Eagle is making?
2. We don't know how (or if) Nick Gislason's winemaking differs from his predecessors'.
Gislason is a wunderkind; he succeeded Andy Erickson in 2010 as Screaming Eagle winemaker at the age of 28. Much of what we know about him comes from a long interview in 2012 with a friend from the small town in Washington state where he grew up. Gislason said the 2011 vintage was the first that was "100-percent Nick", but 2011 was an aberration for Napa Valley, a rainy and cool year, the last before the drought. And Michel Rolland is reportedly still consulting, plus Gislason said Erickson still pops in now and then. Is Gislason doing anything new to put his stamp on the wines?
3. We don't know what Robert Parker would think if he tasted the wines blind.
Nobody can objectively review a bottle knowing that it is "Screaming Eagle." Many psychological studies show how our perceptions of a product are affected by knowing its price. Not only does Parker not taste blind; he apparently often tastes Screaming Eagle at the winery, with the winemaker. This leads to all sorts of bias, not the least confirmation bias, given that Parker is the man who first touted the greatness of Screaming Eagle. What if he put it in a comparative blind tasting of other single-vineyard Napa Valley Cabs? Would he still call it, as he did in 2012, a "perfect wine?"
Parker writes: "Made in the classic, iconic Screaming Eagle style that the original proprietress, Jean Philipps, first showcased in the early 1990s, before the winery was sold to Stan Kroenke, the inky/purple-colored, seamless 2012 possesses an extraordinary set of aromatics consisting of pure blackcurrant liqueur, licorice, acacia flowers, graphite and a subtle hint of new oak. Full-bodied, opulent and voluptuous, this profound wine is as prodigious as I thought it would be last year when tasted from barrel." Does Screaming Eagle have a classic, iconic style? What's the implication that it changed when it was sold to Kroenke? What's Parker trying to say?
5. We don't know why the Sauvignon Blanc is so expensive.
I've had Screaming Eagle Cabernet; it's good. I haven't had the Sauvignon Blanc because at $3900 a bottle on Wine-Searcher, it's crazy expensive. It was allegedly supposed to be a small treat for certain mailing-list customers and restaurants, and now it fetches more than the Cabernet. In the macro sense, we know why it's so expensive: scarcity, which is no longer an issue with the Cabernet, as you can order that and have it by next Friday (see point 1). But here's Parker on the Sauvignon Blanc: "There's nothing terribly special about it, and I can think of a dozen or so Sauvignon Blancs made in nearby vineyards that are richer, more complex, and just better wines at much lower price points." Why the hell do people pay $3900 for Screaming Eagle Sauvignon Blanc?
6. We don't know why Charles Banks left Screaming Eagle.
Banks and Kroenke bought it together, but then Banks left to build his own empire of wineries including Mayacamas Vineyards, Sandhi, Qupé, Wind Gap, South Africa's Mulderbosch and New Zealand's Trinity Hill. Banks didn't need the money from selling his share of Screaming Eagle. He told Wines & Vines in 2014: "We had a great run until my partner, Stan Kroenke, decided he didn't want a partner anymore." Perhaps Kroenke, estimated to be worth $6.3 billion by Forbes, made him an offer he couldn't refuse. Or perhaps Banks wanted to own a different kind of winery. If you look at those names that he bought, all of them are known for sommelier-friendly, non-blockbuster wine. Did Banks want to take Screaming Eagle in a different direction?
7. We don't know which of Stan Kroenke's "children" he likes best.
Kroenke, whose wife Ann is the daughter of Walmart founder James "Bud" Walton, owns the NFL's St. Louis Rams, the NBA's Denver Nuggets, the NHL's Colorado Avalanche and is the largest shareholder in the English Premier League football club Arsenal. He also owns some minor sports franchises and Land Report magazine ranks him as the US's ninth-largest landowner, two places above the Ford family, who made money on a successful venture in motor vehicles. Screaming Eagle isn't listed until the next to last paragraph of his lengthy Wikipedia page, and even then it's under "Other business."
For what it's worth, the Wine Advocate, which is as bullish on the long-term potential of Napa Cabernet as any publication, says that every wine through the '99 vintage is now "Late" in its maturation process, which means "in the last third of the range."
9. We don't know why the eagle is screaming.
But we don't know why the caged bird sings either. "Screaming Eagles" is the nickname for the US Army's 101st Airborne Division, which took part in the D-Day landings. The designation is still in use for the division, which last year was dispatched to western Africa to help contain the spread of ebola. Red wine also has many medicinal uses.
10. We don't know if Screaming Eagle wines are worth the money.
It depends on how you're going to use the wine. Are you going to drink it with dinner, maybe a nice steak? Or perhaps in your den in front of a crackling fire? Then no, it's almost certainly not worth the money; there are plenty of wines you will like just as much at one-tenth the price. Are you going to give it to your Cab-loving boss while you're up for a big promotion? Or to a politician whose vote you want on crucial legislation? Or use it to lure your favorite Hollywood star to your table? Then it's probably worth it – assuming you get the job, he votes your way, and she doesn't turn out to be an impersonator in drag.
Thursday, November 5, 2015
Asia Trip in the Fall
Lee Jorgensen is planning a trip to Asia in March and will visit the following cities:
Bangkok
Singapore
Hong Kong
Taipei
Tainan
Tokyo
Kobe
Osaka
Kyoto
Hiroshima
Details to follow!
Bangkok
Singapore
Hong Kong
Taipei
Tainan
Tokyo
Kobe
Osaka
Kyoto
Hiroshima
Details to follow!
Tuesday, November 3, 2015
Wednesday, October 21, 2015
Simplicty, indeed!
South Korean artist designs Chateau Mouton Rothschild 2013 label
Chateau Mouton
Rothschild has commissioned a South Korean artist Lee Ufan to design the
label on its Bordeaux 2013 vintage first wine.
Some of the world’s greatest artists have illustrated Mouton Rothschild vintages for decades and the Medoc first growth has made this an annual tradition since 1945.
Lee Ufan was chosen to create the Mouton Rothschild 2013 label and he and has opted for simplicity with a purple and red mark above the estate’s logo.
Mouton Rothschild said of the design, ‘The initially indecisive
purple of the drawing gradually attains its full richness, just as a
great wine is patiently brought to engulfment in the secret of the vat
house.’
Bordeaux 2013 was one of the most challenging vintages for the region in the past two decades, but a tasting in London last week showed that several chateaux have still made good wines – even if quantities are very small in some cases.
Lee Ufan was born in a South Korean mountain village in 1936. Twenty years later, he moved to Tokyo’s Nihon University and has since built a career as an artist.
He has won the UNESCO Prize at the Shanghai Biennale in 2000 and Japan’s Praemium Imperiale in 2001, and has exhibited at the Venice Biennale, the Jeu de Paume museum in Paris and the Guggenheim and MoMA in New York.
Mouton’s association with artists designing its labels began in 1924, when Jean Carlu produced artwork for Baron Philippe de Rothschild.
Lee Ufan was chosen to create the Mouton Rothschild 2013 label and he and has opted for simplicity with a purple and red mark above the estate’s logo.
Mouton Rothschild 2013 label
Bordeaux 2013 was one of the most challenging vintages for the region in the past two decades, but a tasting in London last week showed that several chateaux have still made good wines – even if quantities are very small in some cases.
Lee Ufan was born in a South Korean mountain village in 1936. Twenty years later, he moved to Tokyo’s Nihon University and has since built a career as an artist.
He has won the UNESCO Prize at the Shanghai Biennale in 2000 and Japan’s Praemium Imperiale in 2001, and has exhibited at the Venice Biennale, the Jeu de Paume museum in Paris and the Guggenheim and MoMA in New York.
Mouton’s association with artists designing its labels began in 1924, when Jean Carlu produced artwork for Baron Philippe de Rothschild.
Saturday, October 17, 2015
Fall is on the way
But the really beautiful fall colors will not covering the Wine Country for another couple of weeks at least!
Wednesday, October 14, 2015
Pinot Pioneer Walter Schug Dies
Rest in Peace, Sir. The creator of Joseph Phelps Insignia, an
accomplished winery owner and a lovely gentleman. My thoughts go out to
his family.
© Schug Winery
|
Walter Schug at work in his beloved winery.
Sonoma says goodbye to one of Pinot Noir's early advocates.
Walter Schug, the
man who championed the cause of Pinot Noir in Sonoma County long before
it found fame, has died at his home, aged 80, according to his family.
"He was a Pinot Noir niche person long before the movie Sideways came along and everybody was demanding it," his daughter Claudia Schuetz said. "He didn’t jump on a bandwagon. He was pushing it from the very start."
A native of Germany, Schug grew up beside the Rhine in Assmannshausen,
on the region's only Pinot Noir estate. He worked his first harvest in
1953, and was an apprentice at nine different wine estates in the Rheingau region.
In 1959, after finishing his studies with a diploma in viticulture and enology at the prestigious German wine institute of Geisenheim, Schug left for California. He spent a year expanding his knowledge while working at a winery and taking extension courses at UC Davis. Two years later, he returned to California for good, with his wife Gertrud, to work as the assistant superintendent at California Grape Products Corporation.
In 1966 he joined Gallo as the family's head of grower relations and quality control for Northern California. Gallo's involvement on the North Coast meant Schug got to know more than 500 independent growers and several thousand acres of prime vineyards in Napa, Sonoma and Mendocino County.
By 1973, he joined Joseph Phelps to establish Joseph Phelps Vineyards in Napa Valley, and that year began his 10 vintages as vice president and winemaker for the new enterprise. Among Schug's contributions to Napa's burgeoning fame were the first proprietary Bordeaux-Style blend (Insignia); vineyard-designated wines like Backus and Eisele Vineyards; and the first varietal Syrah in the US. He was also a pioneer of late-harvest wines.
By 1980, however, there was little call in California for Pinot Noir, and Phelps ceased production of the varietal. Reluctant to stop working with the grape of his childhood home, and firmly believing in its future, Schug came to an arrangement with Joseph Phelps that he would continue his regular work at the winery, but produce Pinot Noir under his own private label.
Three years later, his private project had grown to such an extent that he made the decision to leave Phelps and concentrate on the Schug brand. Since then the winery has grown from a 2000-case production to 30,000 cases a year. He celebrated his 50th vintage in 2003.
His wife predeceased him and the couple are survived by their three children, Axel, who is the winery's managing partner, Claudia, the company's European sales director, and Andrea Vonk, an accountant.
"He was a Pinot Noir niche person long before the movie Sideways came along and everybody was demanding it," his daughter Claudia Schuetz said. "He didn’t jump on a bandwagon. He was pushing it from the very start."
In 1959, after finishing his studies with a diploma in viticulture and enology at the prestigious German wine institute of Geisenheim, Schug left for California. He spent a year expanding his knowledge while working at a winery and taking extension courses at UC Davis. Two years later, he returned to California for good, with his wife Gertrud, to work as the assistant superintendent at California Grape Products Corporation.
In 1966 he joined Gallo as the family's head of grower relations and quality control for Northern California. Gallo's involvement on the North Coast meant Schug got to know more than 500 independent growers and several thousand acres of prime vineyards in Napa, Sonoma and Mendocino County.
By 1973, he joined Joseph Phelps to establish Joseph Phelps Vineyards in Napa Valley, and that year began his 10 vintages as vice president and winemaker for the new enterprise. Among Schug's contributions to Napa's burgeoning fame were the first proprietary Bordeaux-Style blend (Insignia); vineyard-designated wines like Backus and Eisele Vineyards; and the first varietal Syrah in the US. He was also a pioneer of late-harvest wines.
By 1980, however, there was little call in California for Pinot Noir, and Phelps ceased production of the varietal. Reluctant to stop working with the grape of his childhood home, and firmly believing in its future, Schug came to an arrangement with Joseph Phelps that he would continue his regular work at the winery, but produce Pinot Noir under his own private label.
Three years later, his private project had grown to such an extent that he made the decision to leave Phelps and concentrate on the Schug brand. Since then the winery has grown from a 2000-case production to 30,000 cases a year. He celebrated his 50th vintage in 2003.
His wife predeceased him and the couple are survived by their three children, Axel, who is the winery's managing partner, Claudia, the company's European sales director, and Andrea Vonk, an accountant.
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